I have one concern about this method vs the traditional mold useing more then 4 ribs. You take the time to make the dimensions and mold perfect, but then put the wood spine and poly mold surface on top. Wouldnt this offset your running length slightly since the ends come up sooner then the ribs do.

i dont understand how this would work?

would using more than 4 molds work better?

I've been going back and fourth on this one and right now I'm thinking it doesn't make much of a difference because the tip and tail don't come up at a 90 degree angle. Since the tip and tail will usually come up at less than ~45 degrees it's pretty much negligible.

Here is how I think of the difference: If you put a box within a box, within a box, over and over, you end up with smaller and smaller boxes (this is the 90 degree scenario). I think a snowboard mold is more like stacking lunch trays. You can stack and stack and stack and the lunch trays can all still be the same size.

wow, i never really thought about it that way, i will for sure be buying your board design program now, thanks ,

but do i have to use the wooden spine lathe, if yes i do, where can i buy one?

Im not sure the lunch tray theory is correct.

I built my mold ribs and used the "cut out" portion of the rib and re traced the outline of the rib onto this to make the opposite half.

The Idea was to use this piece to push down and bolt it into place on the sides of the mold. This would take the place of the carridge bolts and rails.

I routed it to the exact oposite shape of the mold rib and it fit in very nicely.

However once I put the wood lathe spine in the mold it no longer fits.

I even tried to compensate by taking 1/4 inch off of the thing (since I used 1/4in MDF in place of lathe because the lathe I found was not a consistent thickness.) and it still doesnt fit, ANY Suggestions?